Politics wasn’t the only thing driving designers at the Fall shows; art remained the motivating force behind many a collection. How designers used their references was very individual. Victoria Beckham borrowed loosely from the Surrealist paintings of Paul Nash that she had seen at the Tate Britain, while Rahul Mishra had artisans painstakingly re-create a 1909 Paul Signac painting, The Pine Tree at St. Tropez, with thread and needle “instead of color and brush.” Yves Saint Laurent did something similar in 1988 when he sent amazingly worked Lesage-embroidered jackets modeled after Vincent van Gogh’s Irises down his couture runway. A rare, and long dormant seed, from that collection bloomed in less-rarefied “soil” this season.
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