Making his Tokyo Fashion Week debut, Yohei Ohno had one of the week’s best shows, inspired by industrial elements and Bauhaus posters seen on a trip to Berlin. The result was sharp needle-punched denim jackets, metallic pleated slips, and space-age quilted satin skirts that proved wearable basics don’t have to be boring. Sulvam’s Teppei Fujita, who is headed to Milan next season, presented a fond farewell letter to Tokyo with a cast of all-Japanese models wearing his smartly deconstructed suede and wool camo coats. He spoke of his fear of the city’s limits. “Tokyo feels too safe; it makes everything too easy,” he explained. “I want to be out of my comfort zone.” Yet it is exactly those limits that push his work further.
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